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DIY RC Glider – The Lull V2 DLG Build Guide

[DIY] DLG Glider - The Lull Build Guide

Looking for a guide to the Lull Balsa DLG build?

You are in the right place.

Lull is a beginner-friendly DIY DLG Glider that you can build yourself from balsa, carbon, and plywood parts provided in the kit 🙂

The build is relatively simple but would require basic skills for working with wood and essential DIY tools.

There is nothing too crazy, though, so if you are just starting with discuss-launch gliders, it is a great choice.

Below is a step-by-step guide on the build with some tips to make it less stressful.

For more tricks and tips on the build, check this RCGroups thread.

Of course, feel free to share your build there!

Before You Start

You’ve got the Lull kit – that’s awesome!

It will make you an airframe, but you will need a little more.

Make sure you have all the tools and RC gear for the future glider and have it handy.

Prepare Your RC Gear

Please, set aside:

  • Two servos, Hitec HS-40 or KST X06, work best, but consider other options if necessary
  • The Battery. We recommend a ~500mAh 1S LiPo for a DLG version and a ~300mAh 2S LiPo for a powered eDLG version that works great with a micro powerset designed for this model
  • A micro PWM radio receiver that has pins for direct servo connection, and will work with your Radio Transmitter.
  • A pigtail for connecting the battery to a receiver for a DLG version. It can act as your power switch as well, eliminating the need to install another component in the powertrain.

Prepare Your Tools And Supplies

To help you with the build, please prepare the following essentials:

  • A sharp model (or paper) knife
  • Medium and thin CA with kicker
  • D2 or D3 PVA glue
  • Masking tape
  • Diamond files
  • Tweezers
  • Pliers
  • Flathead and Phillips-head screwdrivers
  • Sandpaper
  • Kapton tape, or the other sticky tape that you prefer.

You will also need a model covering film and the tools to work with it.

Scissors, covering iron, etc.

If everything is ready, let’s proceed directly to the build.

Bonus Part: Video Assembly Guide

Robert (aka BavarianRC) has already completed the Lull DLG build and recorded the full process on video.

Check it out!

Part 1. The Wing

We recommend starting the assembly with the wing, as it will be used for the tail alignment later in the build.

Pro Tip: Use a clean flat surface for assembly. The wing ribs have a flat bottom tail shape, so you can position them flat on the plan and apply CA to fix them permanently.

Also, thin, medium CA, and PVA D2/D3 glue are handy for this stage. Use PVA for wood-wood connections and CA for wood-carbon connections.

Also, installing the main spar first,  the trailing edge next, and the leading edge last in the exact order is important.

This will help you prevent bending the main spar during assembly.

Find all the wing ribs and half ribs and put these onto the 5x4mm tube from the kit in the correct order. Each rib has a number that will help you with this taslk
Then, prepare your plan by applying a clear sticky tape over the areas where you will apply glue. This will prevent the wing from sticking to the paper
You may notice that the ribs on the plan are not perpendicular to the main spar
So either one by one or in small groups by 5-6 pcs, gently squese the ribs to set a required angle
Start with gluing the “full ribs” in leaving the “half ribs” unglued
Also, make sure to keep L1+ and L2- unglued as well
Next fix the trailing edge in place
Install the wing tip
Now, install the leading edge glueing it to the “full ribs” only at first
Fix the leading edge on top surface of the wing tip, apply CA and kick it with kicker to cure fast
Now, you can finally position the “half ribs”and fix them in place with CA
Use a piece of scrap 2mm balsa and create a stiffener on the last rib to reinforce the leading edge connection. Pay attention to the grains alignment for the best result
Install a plywood launch peg reinforcement

Building A Split Wing?…

If you purchased a Split Wing kit for Lull DLG, you will need to take a slightly different route from here.

Please, see the pictures below:

Have the 1st and 2nd ribs from the original kit unglued
Replace these with the split wing kit, and dryfit them as on the picture
Fit this unglued assembly onto the wing spar and use the plan to find the needed position
Make sure that fiberglass mounts are pushed all the way into the corresponding slots
Install the plastic tube into the right wing
Fix the assembly in place
Install the top sheeting on, DO NOT GLUE the 4mm joiner just yet
Use scrap 6mm balsa to make roots fillers around LE and TE corners
Sand the fillers and top sheeting. CAREFULLY trim the centerline of the top sheeting, so it fits together with no gaps and uneeded tentions. Glue the 4mm joiner once you are happy with the fitting.
Cover the wings
Split-Wing Parts for Lull
Install round standoffs onto the fuselage, stacking them one over another

Solid Wing? Follow Along…

If you wish to build a solid one-piece wing instead, please skip the images above and follow the process below.

Use CF tube wing joiner to align the L1+ and L2- reinvorcememnts and glue them to the corresponding ribs. DO NOT GLUE the CF wing joiner part yet!!!
You can use PVA glue for his tals as it doesn’t stick to the CF and will give you more time to remove the latter
For right-hand launchers, soak the Left launch peg opening with a thin CA
Do that on both sides.
Prepare the top root sheeting by glueing its parts together
Then, install it onto the wing and fix in place
Repeat every step above for the right wing as well
TEMPORARY install the wing joiner in place to check how both wings join together
Use a sand paper over a flat surface or a big sanding block to raper the edges of the wing sheeting
Join the halves together and make sure that there are no gaps. Take this part slowly
Install wing bolt holders in slots of the root ribs
Make sure these are centered and enlarge the wing bolt openings in the sheeting to make a space for the wing bolt coming in and out freely
Trim the trailing edges to be flush with the root ribs
Use a flat surface to align both wing panels by the root ribs
After making sure everything works as expected, apply glue to the edges of the sheeting and the CF wing joiner
Use scrap 6mm balsa to fill in the gap between the roob ribs on the rear and under the wing bolt holders. There are also parts marked with WBF which you can use here
Sand the fillers making them flush with the ribs
Do that on the top side as well
Protect the ribs with a few layers of clear sticky tape before sanding the wing tips
Round the edge and taper the launch peg reinforcement slightly
Pay attention to the bottom surface as well
Soak 30-40mm of the rear part of the wing ribs with thin CA to prevent it bending under the load of shrinking covering film
Cover the wing and make openings for the wing bolts. Hot soldering iron tip might help here
For right-hand launchers, jpen the covering on the left with tip for the launch peg
If using stickers, cut them in parts
Then, position and apply to the wing where desired
Cut the launch peg from the 5x4mm CF tube. For strong launchers, use 5x3mm tube instead
Round the edges and push it into the wingtip opening. Then, make a healthy fillet around it with a medium or thick CA
(Optional) Add up to 3° of wash-out to the wing tips, to improve the wing performance and stall characteristics

Part 2. The V2 Fuselage – DLG & eDLG

Starting May 2026, the Lull kit got the upgrade that touched mainly the fuselage.

This new version can be built either as a DLG or a powered DLG, using a micro 16g powerset, and a 3D-printed servo frame for a simplified installation of Hitec HS-40 or KST X06 servos.

So if you have this new version, please follow along.

Start by installing the wing mounting nuts onto the top plate of the fuselage
Tighten the nuts on the bolts first, and then add the plywood brackets on top and fix them in place
Next, collect all the sidewalls and frames as pictured
Install the rear frames first. We recommend using a D2/D3 glue for these next steps
Then, the sidewalls
Add the bottom piece
Install the firewall. Fix the parts with masking tape or something similar, and leave them to dry under load on a flat surface. This will help to keep your pod straight
Once dry, install the fillers into the bottom corners of the fuselage near the firewall
Add an FC1 piece on top
Next, install the same fillers on the top corners of the pod
The final result
Assemble the cover guides
Leave them to dry
Taper the rear side of the cover to fit onto the wing LE later, when you will have the wing attached
[DLG Option] – temporarily, glue the cover in place with a few drops of D2/D3 glue
[DLG Option] – Get the nose fairing pieces together
[DLG Option] – The assembled piece should look this way
[DLG Option] – Install the fairing in front and sand your fuselage to the desired shape
Rear boom fairing pieces
Glue them together on the tailboom, letting it slide on the tube at this point
Install it after fixing the boom inside the pod
[eDLG Option] – Temporarily intsall the motor
[eDLG Option] – Apply a few drops of thin CA into the motor mounting holes to strengthen these
[eDLG Option] – Use at least two bolts to mount the motor
[eDLG Option] – Attach your spinner
[eDLG Option] – Mark the rounding that will be the guide for sanding the fuselage
Install the servos on the frame and M2 nuts into the beds on the edges of the frame
Slide the frame assembly into the fuselage
Fix it with the bolts from the bottom of the fuselage. Squeeze the plywood so the bolt stays flat on the bottom surface
[eDLG Option] – like in the previous example, fix the cover in place temporarily, and sand down the fuselage to the desired shape
Final result after sand-work
[eDLG Option] Make sure you “touch” the circular marks of the nose spinner done before
Example shape of the rail fillets
Use a thin sharp knife blade to cut through the glue drops and “open” the hatch after you are done with sanding

Part 3. Tails & A Tailboom

You can assemble your Lull DLG for both right-hand and left-hand launchers.

Check the assembly plan provided with the kit for detailed instructions on both options.

The control surfaces may use Z-Stitch, aka Crossover hinges, made of a covering film.

See the video below for a detailed process on this type of hinge, and scan through this thread on RCGroups.

Now, follow the steps below to assemble the tailboom and tails:

Gather all the parts for the tailplane mount
Open the holes in the 3D-Printed mount with a file to make a loose fit on the boom
The mount should slide freely to avoid cracking it during the assembly
Insert M3 nuts into the slots, screw the bolts in, and fix the nuts in the mount with a thick CA
Measure 105mm from the rear part of the 6x5mm twill carbon boom
Slide the mount to that mark
Fix the mount in place with medium CA
Measure and mark 150mm on one side of your future boom
And 140mm on the opposite side
Drill 1.5 mm holes at the marks on both sides and remove the masking tape
Apply some medium CA inside the mounting holes on the stab to reinforce. Let it sit or kick with a CA kicker
Temporarily mount the stab on the boom
[Optional] You can mount the stab under the boom
[Optional] As well as above the boom, depending on your liking
Mount the wing and make sure that the stab is parallel to the wing
Fix the boom in place with a few drops of CA, and then make a nice fillet inside the fuselage.
[Pro-tip] Shape the control surfaces while they are still uncut
Taper the control surfaces to ~1.5 mm thickness on the trailing edge
Then, cut off the elevator and rudder
Round the edges and taper the hinge lines for Z-Stich hinges. Please refer to the printed plan for the exact position of your tail feathers
Wrap the tails with the covering film of your choice and hinge your flying surfaces. Make sure you have an extra hinge around the control horn and at a distance of ~60 mm from it
Locate the positions of the mounting holes on the stab
Open slots for for mounting bolts and control horns. A soldering iron with a thin, dry soldering tip might help here
Prepare your control horns and scrub the sides with sandpaper for better adhesion
Insert your control horns in place and fix with a medium CA
Bend two pcs of 0.5mm music wire into a C-shape, with ~15-20mm legs
Insert the torsions into the tails as pictured

Part 4. Control Linkages & Servos

The Lull V2 Kit includes a 3D-printed servo frame designed to fit Hitec HS-40 or KST X06, or A06 servos.

But you can also use other options as well by gluing them straight onto the bottom of the fuselage, skipping the frame.

Here is the correct way to install servos in the servo frame
Prepare the servo arms and trim them to fit into the fuselage
Set your servos to the middle position and fix the arms onto the servo shafts
Remove the servo frame from the fuselage if it was installed inside
Thread half of a pull wire into the hole drilled in the boom and push it to the front of the fuselage pod
Fix the rear end of the cable to prevent it from sliding inside the boom
On the front end, slide the plastic sleeve first, and then the crimp tube on the cable
Make a loop through the servo arm and back through the crimp tube. Cut the excess cable off.
Thread the second half of the cable through the second hole in the boom
Fix the rear side of it as well
Repeat the process for the second wire
And crimp the second wire on the second servo arm
Now, install the servo frame with servos back into the fuselage, and fix it with M2 bolts
Pull on the back sides of both cables to create moderate tension. Fix those with masking tape
Now, position the plastic sleeves as pictured. These should be ~1 mm inside the carbon boom
Lastly, fix the sleeves to the plywood B3 part by applying a drop of medium CA. BE CAREFUL not to glue the cable into the sleeve.

Powerset Assembly

On case you purchase a micro powerset for your Lull kit, follow these simple steps to assebmle it.

[eDLG Option] Get all powerset parts
[eDLG Option] Install the blades into the plastic yoke and slide the shaft pin through
[eDLG Option] Repeat for the second blade as well
[eDLG Option] Install the spacer onto the motor shaft and align the mounting holes. Install the mounting bolts into the yoke
[eDLG Option] Install the assembled yoke on the spinner, then fix the whole assembly onto the motor with the M2 screws
[eDLG Option] Slide the ESC wires through the firewall first, and push the ESC as well.
[eDLG Option] Finally, secure the motor to the firewall with the supplied M2 screws. Make sure the screws don’t touch the motor coils. The final result should look like in this pic

Hatch Cover Attachment

The hatch cover features no holding mechanism by default to keep it in place while flying.

So, we recommend making an O-ring with a thin sticky tape, that proved to be the most reliable option for keeping the fuselage closed.

Part 5. CG Balance & Radio Setup

The last part of the assembly includes the installation of the RC receiver, a battery, and finding the correct CG point.

The last bit is critical as it will directly influence your in-flight model performance.

Feel free to use the following settings as your starting point and adjust later based on your preference.

Recommended Settings For Lull DLG

Lull 1.2m DLG Control Throws CG Settings
CG 84-87mm from wing leading edge (at the root rib)
Rudder Throws +/- 12mm
Elevator Throws 6mm up / 12m down
Launch [Elevator] 1-1.5mm up
Launch [Rudder] 6mm right (for right hand launchers)
Zoom [Elevator] 0.5-1mm down
Zoom [Rudder] Neutral

If your CG is too far behind the recommended position, you can use some car weights or some tungsten putty in the nose to move it forward.

The radio setup for Lull is quite basic since you need only two channels here.

However, for OpenTx / EdgeTx users, we highly recommend SoarOTX templates, which offer user-friendly configuration, flight logs, scoring, flight graphing, and much more.

Lull 1.2m DLG it the flying field

As soon as you are ready, head down to the field and please share your experience with us in the comments below, on the RCGroups thread, or just by tagging us on Instagram.

We always appreciate your input!

And as always, happy flying!

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