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Shaka E-Fuse Assembly Guide

Shaka E-Fuselage Building Instruction

Shaka was originally created as a Slope Glider for low to medium winds.

However, considering the demand and the convenience of the electric motor mounted in front we designed a Shaka E-Fuse as an option you can purchase alongside the original KIT.

It uses a small drone motor and a 25mm or a 30mm spinner with a folding prop of your choice.

We recommend getting these parts before starting the assembly, as they will come in handy while putting the front of the fuselage together and sending it down to the right shape.

Also, get familiar with the original Shaka Fuselage Assembly Guide, as the approach to building an E-Fuse is slightly different.

Building The Proper Thrust Angles

As you can read in the description of the Shaka E-Fuse, it’s designed with 2° right and 2° down thrust.

This is accomplished by building in the angles in the firewall (F1).

So, to build it right, note the Left (xxL)and Right (xxR) marks on the parts and position them accordingly.

Get Rewards For Building a Shaka!

If you are building one of the Shaka KITs, you can get a $10 gift certificate for your next order!

Just share how you build or fly a Shaka on Instagram or Facebook and tag @FlightPointRC.

As soon as we’ll notice your posts, you will get your certificate via direct messages.

Enjoy!

Important: The text marks on the “FB” and “F1” parts should be facing inside the fuselage, the “front” indicates the side of the “FB” part to be positioned on the firewall side.

Shaka E-Fuse Build 7

Now, we recommend temporary mounting your motor on the firewall, to position the Nose Fillers (“NFx” parts) and the front rib right.

Please note, “NF3” parts are optional. Please use your best judgement to either install them or not, depending on the motor and spinner combo you are using. This guide is showing the variation you can build for Emax 1407 motor combined with 25mm F5K Spinner.

Important: Make sure that the text mark on the “H1” part facing inside the fuselage.

Then, use two small drops of glue on each side of the hatch to temporary glue it to the fuselage for shaping and sanding.

Wait for the glue to dry and begin sanding the fuselage to the desired shape.

Use the joints between the as the guides while sending to judge the symmetry of the shapes. Also, check the pictures below to understand how “deep” you can send into the corners.

Once done, detach the hatch from the fuselage and dry fit your motor and spinner to check the accuracy of the nose behind the spinner and make sure that it can spin freely.

Make the corrections if needed and move on to covering the fuselage with your favourite colour.

Once done, follow a video tutorial below to make a sticky tape O-ring for securing the hatch in place

In the end, you should have something similar to this

Shaka E-Fuse Assembled

Power Set Installation Tip

Shaka E-Fuse was created to make your life easier and walk less ground if the lift suddenly fades away from a slope.

With “ease” in mind, we designed a fuselage around the idea of sliding the ESC from the front having it soldered to the motor leads already. This way, the wiring between the motor and the ESC can be as short as possible to both save weight and better organise the interior space.

Also, there is more flexibility about where to put your RC components in the pod.

Please note, this was tested to work with a tiny 20A drone ESC. In case your particular one has a very tiny fit, we’d encourage you to solder the ESC when the motor is already installed. Putting too much force while sliding the ESC through the firewall opening, may ruin the unit.

To make the ESC slide freely, trim the F0 part of the fuse as shown in the first picture above. You can do it after covering the fuselage, right before the gear installation.

It will free up some extra space for the ESC to slide through.

Also, we recommend using high-voltage servos and receivers for the E-Shaka, capable of handling the voltage provided by 2S LiPo Battery directly. There is no requirement to use digital vs analog servos so both will work brilliantly if capable of 8.4V!

This way you can benefit from the lightweight ~20A done ESCs which comes with no BEC, and get proper voltage telemetry to your Tx if available.

Enjoy and let us know in the comments how your personal build goes.

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