Get A Pre-Build DLG 😉
Lacking time to build your DLG?
Delegate it to us!
Order a model with the pre-installed servos, torsion springs, pull strings, and pushrods. Even battery, per your request.
Experienced pilots often go with this option, to maximise their air time.
Use A Masking Tape While Building
So you just paid a $XXX for your new glider and scratched the graphic on the wing with a razor, or a sandpaper.
Sounds disappointing, ha?
To prevent that, simply take a strip of masking tape and apply it before moving along with your build. Use it on and around the areas that you plan to drill, cut or glue.
In addition to making mechanical protection, you can make marks on the masking tape with a pencil or a pan instead of putting your marks on the glossy surface of your model.
Drill or cut straight through the tape, trip the openings/cuts and remove the tape when everything is done.
Masking tape could come handy while gluing your control horns as well.
Wrap the area around your skin opening leaving a small gap (<1mm) to the cutout first. Then, apply your favorite glue, whether it will be an epoxy or CA, and install the control horn.
Remove the tape, while the epoxy is still curing to get a smooth and accurate rounding to support the sides of the control horn.
Additionally, all the unnessesary drops of glue will likely to stay on the tape and not on the glossy DLG skin.
Simple as a piece of cake and doesn’t cost a dime.
Guide Pull Wires With A Tube
This cool trick I learned the hard way and would like you to avoid my mistakes in future.
As you all know, most of the modern DLG models are using pull wires and torsion springs for driving the tail control surfaces.
This method makes the tail of the glider light, and considering the servos are precise, makes the steering incredibly fine by eliminating any possible play on the tail surfaces.
Just to make it straight, you won’t need this while building a rudderless DLG, as you will have only one pull wire inside the boom.
For models, which feature both rudder and elevator and the pull strings inside the tail boom, it’s easy to twist the pull wires one around the other. In this case, stearing of the one control surface, say a rudder may interfere with the stearing of an elevator, and vice versa.
As being said, messed up stearing of your tails is not what you would like to have on the RC glider.
To avoid pull wires twisting, there is a simple trick.
Once you have one of the wires installed and pulled through the boom, say rudder goes first, pull it and fix it with a masking tape, or attach straight to the servo horn. Considering the force from the torsion spring, it will make the first wire go straight inside the boom.
Next, slide a long stiff hollow tube all the way through the pod and boom, right to the elevator horn opening. Once done, just slide the second wire inside the tube and remove the last.
This way your pull wires will sit nice and straight inside the boom of your DLG.
Use Flipped Servo Horns To Optimize Space
F3K models usually have tiny rounded pods where the servos should be mounted.
Sometimes, this may create an issue when the servo horn will scrab the side of the fuselage pod, or a nose cone, or a hatch.
As a side note, this does not happening too often nowadays as most manufacturers use 3d design to create space for the most commonly used servos. And if you decide to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and use either KST X08 or similar size servos, which is a standard recommendation of most manufacturers recently, you shouldn’t face this issue.
However, if you did notice that your servo horns scrab the fuse, KST has got you covered.
The standart set of servo horns provided with the most popular F3K servo – KST X08 V5, includes a flipped servo horn.
It can be mounted “upside-down” compared to the regular horn and give you a few millimeters gap that you may need for your build.
So all you need to do is cut the unneeded parts of the flipped horn, install it in place and go flying.
It’s as easy as that.
De-Case A Servo For An Optimum Fit
Most DLGs features an extremely aerodynamic shape of the fuse to reduse the trad as mush as possible.
Sometimes this requires some construction compromizes to maximise the launch performance and interrior space.
As an example, let’s take Hawk DLG.
This 1-meter glider has a thin wing airfoil and narrow fuselage that helps getting up to 50+ meter launches.
Additionally, that helps with the upwind prenetration.
However, a tiny fuselage need to fit 4 (or 3 for rudderless) servos inside.
Due to the lack of space, the best servo choise would be Dymond’s D47.
But some pilots still go with some alternatives, like Emax ES9051 removing the bottom part of the casing and cutting their servo cost by half.
This way you can go beyond the recomendations and fit in the greatly valued digital servos instead of the rodust but analog substitute.
Have Some Other DLG Build Tips?
Share yours in the comments section below!